Skip to main content

the benefits of undervolting

well there's always gonna be people telling you how you can overclock your computer and getting it to perform better than what it's rated on the box. and they'd be right you know. most PC components today are made to much tighter specifications in terms of performance, with sufficient (and significant) margins for even better performance if you'd just know how to unlock it.

that said, overclocking is not for everyone, and in most cases it would void your warranty. also, there's a fair bit of elbow grease involved, as well as a certain level of competence and comfort required to go about tweaking the BIOS.

well, that's for those who want to push their machines to the limit. but what if you're a middle of the road kind of guy - just want the computer to perform to specs, and maybe get a little more useful life out of the components? there's something for you too! and its known as under-volting.


see, when it comes to computers and performance, the key variables are speed (measured as a product of clock-speed and multiplier), voltage, and heat created.

when most people talk about overclocking, they'd take a 3200MHz chip and bump it up to 3600MHz, for example. what this does is to force the CPU to run at a higher speed than it's spec'd, and while most processors will do that for you without breaking a sweat, some will require you to increase a little voltage to the chip to get her innards humming along nicely. with increased voltage comes our bugbear, increase heat output, and the requirement of heat dissipation products.

incidentally, this is why hardcore 'gamer' PCs almost always come with gigantic heatsinks and fans where the CPU is located.

now, the delightful thing about modern CPUs is that it isn't only margined for better performance - it's also sold with standardised input voltage, much more in fact, than is actually required for the chip to run at the rating it says on the box. for example, i am using an AMD x955 quad core chip, and it's defaulted to 1.375v to achieve 3.2GHz. however, at this voltage, the CPU generates close to 100deg C of heat that my HSF has trouble dissipating.

to solve the problem, i undervolt the chip via BIOS, limiting the maximum amount of juice that goes to my CPU. at 1.2v, my CPU hums along happily at 60deg C under full load, a temperature reduction of ~40deg C!

the downside of undervolting is (for windows machines) a blue screen, as the CPU tries to hit its rated speed without sufficient juice to power her. simply increase the voltage ceiling available to the next available step until you find one that is stable for your system. easy hack, and your PC now runs cooler. job done!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

777 CBT hacks

so i was about to go through the computer based training package from boeing on my computer at home, when i came across an error asking me to locate the files on my computer. a simple "replace.." command editing the lessons.lst file via notepad made light work of that. basically, all that needed to be done was to change the lessons.lst file so that the CBT program knows which directory the files are stored. once fired up, i realised that the fonts look crappy as a geocities website. i figured it's gotta be a font problem since, you know.. crappy fonts right? so i muck around the directory and voila ! a folder called "fonts". i did the silly thing first - copying the entire "fonts" directory from my windows\fonts folder into my CBT folder, and when that didn't work, i figured the next best thing to do was to copy the contents of the "fonts" directory from CBT into the windows one. brilliant. my CBT now looks pretty as a pancake. with...

Sticky rubber/plastic coating on gadgets and how to remove them

I’ve drowned my old Sony Z4 Tablet (yeah, I’m still not entirely sure how I pulled that one off) and have been living without an Android tablet for about a year now. In the meantime, I’ve bought myself a 12.9 inch iPad Pro 1, which I’m using to type this post. Anyway, the point of this post isn’t about neither the Z4, nor the iPad Pro. Yes, this post is all about my 10 inch Nexus 10, the flagship hardware created by Samsung to Google’s exacting specifications. I’ve stopped using it since 2016 (I know, because when I fired the baby up, she held a full charge* and all the chrome tabs were circa ‘16), and 2 years of storage in humid South East Asia did the poor sod no favors. In some way, I think I’ve come to disuse this tablet because of how bad it feels in the hand. Some boffin thought it would be splendid if the Nexus 10 felt like a good 2B accompaniment - the veritable eraser - and coated the damned thing in a layer of rubberised something . In some way, I suppose they had thei...

Netgear R7800 Nighthawk: 5GHz packet loss and random disconnects

Just a short update regarding my router. I pair it with my Asus AC88 PCIe card on my main desktop for an actual throughput of about 500Mbps up/down. The router is situated in my living room, and my desktop is placed around 7.5m away, with a 1/2 foot thick prefabricated wall in between to account for signal attenuation. I find the current setup works fine for me. I have a gigabit internet subscription at home, and 500 up/down is plenty fast for my daily use. I could do a direct plug-in via the router if ever there was any large file transfer required, but my Synology NAS (DS-214) with its ethernet connection deals with that use case for me. Anyhow, since my last post, I've noticed random disconnects on my 5GHz connection. My missus has also been complaining that her iPhone is dropping 2.4GHz connections from her spot in bed (easily the furthest spot from the router in the entire apartment) I did the usual troubleshooting - restoring network connections to default on my PC, ...